Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park
March 25, 2021
Travel day today, we are heading north to Dunlap, California
A few clouds tried to hide the mountaintops.
We even drove past Pyramid Lake, okay its a reservoir formed by Pyramid Dam on Piru Creek in the eastern San Emigdio Mountains, near Castaic, Southern California, but it feels like we are moving out of the desert.
Now that we have a diesel truck, we gas up with the semis.
And sometimes it means waiting in line at the pump. Yes, those big trucks take awhile to fill up their big tanks.
The clouds are breaking up and blue skies are coming thru.
Green, trees are filling the landscape.
We pulled in to Sequoia RV Park to a very roomy campsite.
Hills can be seen in every direction.
The pond is a little on the dry side.
March 26, 2021
Today went to Kings Canyon National Park and saw the Sequoia trees.
It was partly cloudy and 53 degrees down by our campground.
The hills on the way up were a mix of Oaks and Pine trees below 3,000 feet.
A stop by the Visitor Center where it was 38 degrees showed that they have had some snow.
As we asked about trails the answer was its snow covered for all except the Grant Tree Trail.
Even without being on a trail the tall Sequoia Trees can be seen up at this elevation of around 6,000 feet.
We buttoned up for the weather and headed out on the Grant Tree Trail. The trail that is not packed with too much snow to hike on. "this area was once a small national park in its own right. General Grant National Park, created in 1890, protected just the sequoias of General Grant Grove. Fifty years later, Congress included it in Kings Canyon National Park."
The bottom of a Sequoia, they are crazy large with a shallow root system. You are looking at it, but it is still unbelievable.
And so tall that they are hard to photograph from top to bottom.
"Three of the first four national parks protected giant sequoias. As a result, the NPS arrowhead logo features a sequoia silhouette. Embossed sequoia cones decorate the belts and hatbands of park rangers nationwide."
The buffalo, not part of Sequoia National Park.
" the Fallen Monarch sheltered some of the park's early visitors. Construction crews such as this one camped here, sleeping in beds inside the hollow log. The cavalry kept their horses in it (note the mounted cavalryman in this photograph)."
Here is Jim by that same Fallen Monarch 100 years later and both the fallen tree and the General Lee to right of it are fairly identical to the way they looked a 100 years ago.
You can walk through the tree from one end to the other, which is pretty fun to do. It also makes you realize how tall it was when you walk the height of it.
They are so impressive, even the unnamed ones. The area took on a mystical quality when the fog started to fill in or the clouds started filtering down.
"Early explorers told of giant trees, but the public remained skeptical. At least three nearby sequoias died to prove that they lived. Cut into pieces, they were shipped across the country to exhibit as freaks.
All that remains of the tree that once stood here is the Centennial Stump. Cut in 1875 for America's Centennial Exhibition, sixteen feet of the trunk were hollowed out and then reassembled in Philadelphia. People laughed it off as the "California Hoax."
Okay, it is difficult to see due to the snow, but in fairness the snow did add a Christmassy feel to the day.
"THIS CABIN WAS BUILT IN 1872 BY ISRAEL GAMLIN, WHO WITH HIS BROTHER THOMAS FILED A TIMBER CLAIM TO 160 ACRES WITHIN GRANT GROVE. THEY QUARTERED HERE UNTIL 1878 WHILE GRAZING CATTLE IN THE MOUNTAINS."
"AFTER GENERAL GRANT NATIONAL PARK WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1890. THE CABIN WAS USED AS A STORE HOUSE BY THE U.S. CAVALRY WHO PATROLLED THE PARK UNTIL 1913. " It is a nice cabin, just one big room with a fireplace on the center of the back wall.
"LATER IT BECAME THE QUARTERS OF THE FIRST PARK RANGER STATIONED HERE."
The trail was well worn by visitors, so the snow was not deep, but it was slippery in parts.
Here is the fire damaged General Grant Tree. Living as long as the Sequoia tree does (as old as 3,000 years) it is not uncommon to see fire damage on the bases of many of the trees.
General Grant 1,700 years old
40 feet in diameter
268 feet high
1,254 tons
"The General Grant Tree's massive trunk makes it the third-largest tree in the world, by volume. And at 40 feet (12 m) in diameter at ground level, it is the world's widest-known sequoia. But it is not nearly the oldest. In fact, it is 1,500 years younger than the oldest-known sequoia."
A break in the fence filled by a fallen tree section. I imagine that the fencing here is due to the popularity of the trail as a means of keeping people from damaging the land or the trees.
Fires have touched every mature sequoia many times. Thick insulating bark protects mature sequoias from all but the hottest flames. Sequoia wood is high in tannin, a chemical that helps exposed wood to resist rot and insects. Fire eventually conquered the tree leaving only a stump. Before it died, however, the tree left its legacy: thousands of seedlings that sprouted after earlier fires.
I took a spur trail and discovered Spring Creek making its way thru the snow.
MICHIGAN TREE
"THIS TREE WAS ONCE KNOWN AS THE SPRING TREE BECAUSE OF THE SPRING AT ITS BASE THE SAME SPRING UNDERMINED THE TREE
CAUSING IT TO FALL IN 1931"
Okay its really foggy now but this is the General Grant tree in the distance
"This tree was named in 1867 for Civil War General Ulysses S. Grant. Inspired by this tree and its neighbors, in 1890 Congress protected Grant Grove as a national park the nation's third after
Yellowstone and Sequoia."
Three Sequoias together, on the rest of the trail the Sequoias seemed set apart from others, I wonder if as they grow the trunks will bump into each other.
"To people around the world, large old trees symbolize wisdom, fruitfulness, and strength. Because they live so long, we imagine that they are eternal."
After finishing the Grant Tree Trail we drove down the road and checked out the Azalea campground that had 20 open sites.
I was surprised to find people camping in the snow, much hardier than Jim and I in our RV with heat and a great mattress as well as being down in the valley where the snow is all gone and its much warmer.
To avoid putting the tent on the snow, these campers will be sleeping on granite tonight, that should be comfy.
Further up the road we came upon a fire damaged area.
"In fall 1955 McGee Fire burned over 17,500 acres between Miramonte and the Kings River Sparked by an escaped burn, McGee was a dramatic example of extreme fire behavior in the Sierra Nevada ecosystem."
"After this area was logged in the late 1800s, few trees remained in this altered ecosystem where poor quality wood and branches were left to rot. Years of suppressing all fire here had disrupted the fire cycle. Dense brush grew under the trees forming fuel ladders. Fifty years later the dry September wind carried embers from a prescribed burn into a tinderbox of old brush and scraggly trees. Fuel ladders allowed the McGee Fire to climb from the ground through the brush and branches into the treetops."
Across the street from the fire damage area life goes on.
View along the Kings Canyon Road
Poppies on the hillside, a spectacular array of bright orange color.
So vibrant in person, and it was even better the next day.
Back in the RV for a movie and some popcorn. And as you can see behind us the next site has our exact RV - model and year, twins.
March 27, 2021
Today we went to Hume Lake in Sequoia National Forest, which is intertwined with Kings Canyon National Park and Sequoia National Park. The ranger was not sure how much snow was on this trail but felt we could easily follow the trail as it went around the lake.
Our first peak at Lake Hume, love at first sight.
Ready to hike around the whole lake
Unlike yesterday the trail is clear of snow and smells like pine, Jim loves the smell of pine.
You can see the Sierra Nevada range from the lake.
"Once a quiet meadow, in 1909 Hume Lake Dam was completed and
the millpond ready for logs. The man-made lake became the centerpiece of a major logging enterprise and the town of Hume swelled to 1,000 lumbermen. The town bustled with the activity of trains and mill saws. Lumber was bundled and sent down the 72-mile long flume to the central valley. At its peak in 1912,the Hume-Bennett Lumber Company produced over 27 million board feet of lumber."
"John S. Eastwood designed this revolutionary multiple-arch dam in 1908. Under his supervision, workmen constructed this dam in only 114 days, for $46,541. Eastwood gained fame as he went on to build 17 other similar multiple arch dams. None have failed." Water pressure on the upstream faces of the arches holds the dam in place.
Backside of the dam, not quite as attractive as the lakeside arches.
The outflow path of the dam, very rocky, not at all like the lakeside.
Now the wvew from the backside of the dam is pretty, the same Sierra Nevada mountain range.
"The lake served as a log storage pond and supplied water for a 54-mile-long, V-shaped wooden flume, which carried rough lumber from the mill here through the rugged Kings River Canyon to Sanger for finishing and distribution." Some logs are still here in the lake.
This area of the lake is called Sandy Cove, it looked like a great place to launch a kayak - in warmer weather.
Here is the water flowing into the lake. It has a similar rocky look to that of the area beyond the dam.
I have been in a desert environment for awhile, so I am happy to share this water video with you.
Jim on the bridge where the water flows into the lake, watching me climb around the rocks below.
I love climbing around an area like this.
The flow does have to work around some fallen logs.
Pine trees frame the lake shore and I just couldn't stop taking pictures as the view changed slightly as we walked around the shore.
I just can't resist, another rock to scramble up.
The view at the end of the lake - simply captivating.
And the views as we drive out are also grand.
While the road into the Kings Grand Canyon is closed so we cannot drive to the bottom of the canyon, but we can get a glimpse of it from Lake Hume Road.
You can even see the road in the canyon. Apparently there is some rock slide damage that needs to be cleaned up and the road will open up at the end of April.
Another good day.
March 28, 2021
Sunny Sunday a good day to rest.
Jim and I sat outside and got some reading in, 72 and sunny. Jim chose the shade while I opted for the sunshine.
March 29, 2021
Today we headed to Sequoia National Park, fortunately the road inside the park is open which is an hour shorter than driving around to the south end.
Red Mountain Overlook
"One of the largest areas of wilderness in the lower 48 states lies before you. This expanse of the Sierra Nevada spans both national forest and national park lands."
Granite is the base of the area, fortunately the Sequoia have a wide and not deep root system.
"We simply need that wild country available to us, even if we never do more than drive
to its edge and look in. For it can be a means of reassuring ourselves of
our sanity as creatures, a part of the geography of hope."
Wallace Stegner, 1960
The weather is warmer today just about 50 degrees and sunny.
Halstead Meadow, probably looks better later in the Spring.
"In addition to being beautiful, Sierran meadows offer important wetland habitats for many animals that rely on them for food, nesting, foraging, and cover. "
It is a Monday and there are plenty of cars here parked at the trailhead.
Jim is masked and ready to hike to the world's largest tree
The trail here looks clear of snow, sunshine and probably lots of people stomping by have cleared all the snow from this portion of the trail.
General Sherman Tree, by volume the biggest tree in the WORLD.
The Diameter at the base is 36.5 feet, at 180' up 13.7 feet
the largest branch is 6.8 feet in diameter
Volume 52,500 cubic feet Weight 1,385 tons
Height 275 feet Age estimated at 2,200 years
The Sherman Trees top is dead, so the tree's trunk no longer gets taller. However, its volume keeps increasing. Each year the trunk grows wider, adding enough wood to equal another good-sized tree.
THE LARGEST TREE ON EARTH
". . . the General Sherman Tree. Its claim to fame as the biggest tree in the world comes from the volume of its trunk. A few other tree trunks are bigger around. Some trees are taller. But no other tree has more wood in its trunk than the Sherman Tree.
The General does have a fire scar, but that does not stop him from growing. What is this in the path?
It is a broken fallen part of another tree. It must be pretty heavy for them to have fixed the fences around it but left this on the trail.
Nearby the General is this unnamed tree with some gnarly fire damage.
Thick fibrous bark provides superior insulation against fire.
With little flammable sap, it doesn't burn easily.
"This slab from the stump of a giant sequoia tells a story of fire and survival. The annual growth rings show that the tree lived about 2,210 years. Marks within some rings show that, during that time, at least 80 different fires burned hot enough to leave a scar."
This scar is still charred and wood is exposed. If fire returns here soon, the scar may not have time to heal over
Healed Fire Scar
The bark almost covers the scar now, insulating the wood from further fire damage.
It is time to hit the Congress Trail, highly recommended by our camping neighbors. It begins and ends here by the General Sherman Trail but since it is 2 miles long few people who come to Sherman walk this trail. If you come, take this trails, trust me it is worth it.
For this trail, snow still covers it, so we put some Crampons on our boots. The metal on the bottom grips on the ice and snow making it easy to hike.
The Congress Trail is full of Sequoia trees which are not fenced in. We were amazed by tree after tree.
The trees are large, but the pine cone it produces is not.
It reminds me of the small acorn and the mighty oak.
The Sequoias cinnamon color bark makes them standout among the pine trees.
This tree's scar damage came with a hole under the tree.
If lost in the woods this would make a great shelter.
"John Muir, famous Scottish-American naturalist, described entering this grove in 1873: A magnificent growth of giants... one naturally walked softly and awe-stricken among them. I wandered on, meeting nobler trees where all are noble.... this part of the Sequoia belt seemed to me the finest, and I then named it “the Giant Forest."
The McKinley tree is 291 feet tall and believed to be over 2,000 years old.
It is dedicated to 25th U.S. President William McKinley.
"Sequoias have a rare combination of traits-fast growth and long life. Put those together with sufficient water and you get a huge tree. Several adaptations help them to survive many challenges that kill other trees."
The President is the third-largest tree in the world, measured by volume of trunk,
247 feet (75 m) high, and 27 feet (8.2 m) in diameter at the base.
And the oldest-known living sequoia, about 3,200 years old
Chief Sequoyah, the 9th largest tree in Giant Forest grove, the 27th largest giant sequoia in the world
And then we came to the Senate. A cluster of large sequoia trees
Amazing.
insert senate video
Here's a short video at the Senate
Further down we reach another cluster called the House.
Walk in the center and the sound of the forest mellows.
Come walk in the House grove with me
Well this tree fell across the trail, but someone sawed an opening to tunnel right thru.
We drove a bit further down the road to Giant Museum. Unfortunately all exhibits were closed due to CoVid 19. But the outdoors are always open.
The Giant Museum with the Sentinel Tree taken from the parking lot across the street. It was crowded here so it took 2 laps of the parking lot to find a car pulling out so we could take the spot.
"Sentinel, which stands directly in front of Giant Forest Museum, is the 21st largest tree in Sequoia National Park and the 13th largest tree in Giant Forest."
Top of the Sentinel tree.
We headed back on Generals Highway, the views are still good.
This shot from our windshield camera shows how you can see Sequoia the car.
The sequoia trees that you see here-even medium-sized ones-are larger and older than most other trees on Earth.
We came upon Clover Creek and pulled over to take it all in.
The bridge over the creek is a handsome one.
Clover creek is flowing well, the snow must be melting and coming down the mountains.
Here is a video so you can hear the creek.
March 30, 2021
Today we headed to the Giant Forest to hike 3 trails, first up Bear Hill
This trail besides being uphill is covered in slippery stomped on, refrozen snow. Yes, we will be using our hiking poles to stab into the snow to get some grip. The crampons we borrowed yesterday from our neighbor Georgette & John went to Yosemite today with them. We have ordered our own crampons to be delivered to our Yosemite campsite on the day we arrive there, since we believe Yosemite trails will also be snow covered.
Here's Jim on the trail walking under a tree that fell over the path.
The Sequoias here are impressive.
Jim and I debated, is this 2 trees that grew together or 1 tree that split into two?
I showed the picture to the park ranger and he agreed with me
2 trees that grew together. Is that what you thought too?
The treetop of a sequoia.
End of trail at the Sentinel.
Now we are off on the Big Trees Trail.
The first thing I see and can finally photograph is a snagtop.
Normally they are so high and obscured by other branches that I can't get the shot.
A snagtop is an indication that the sequoia is no longer growing vertically, but it will still get thicker.
"Mature sequoias show smooth clumps of foliage. The tops of the trunks eventually die, giving the oldest trees the nickname "snagtops.".
Another day of gorgeous blue sky to offset the green branches and cinnamon bark.
"This open meadow is too wet for trees. Sequoia roots can't live in this soggy soil. Rainwater and melting snow drain here from the surrounding hills. The water collects in a depression in the bedrock, creating this moist opening. Yet giant sequoias need enormous amounts of water. By growing near the meadow but not in it, they can benefit. Their roots capture moisture as it drains toward the meadow."
And the meadow gives me a chance to photograph several tress from top to bottom.
We have seen some trunks work around objects, but this one wins the prize for growing next to this huge rock.
Jim calls this "What came first the Sequoia or the egg?"
We are enjoying the Big Tree Trail, it is a definite do if you come here.
And finally we see a young sequoia and can show you its branches, typically they are hundreds of feet over my head.
We have a tradition of playing Pooh Sticks on trail bridges, (everyone drops a stick on one side of the bridge and we see who's stick comes out the other side of the bridge first). This bridge wins for the longest contest ever, we waited and waited for the sticks to appear and in the end Jim's stick came out first. My stick never came thru, it must have gotten stuck on something under the bridge.
Jim on a portion of the trail that had no snow on it.
There are so many sequoias on this trail, it is wonderful.
In the background you see a fallen tree, or a part of it, it went on 4 times the length shown here.
Does a tree make a sound when it falls, oh yeah.
"It was a calm, sunny day in the Giant Forest. Out of the clear blue came loud cracks as the roots snapped, and then a crash like thunder. We found the tree shattered, with an amazing amount of water flowing from the broken wood. Touching the inside of the sequoia was startling it was ice cold."
Bill Tweed Park Ranger Sequoia National Park July 1974
Meet Ed by Ned
"Ed by Ned - the nickname given by John and James Jordan in 1906-are two individual trees that grew so close together their bases joined. The combined bases of Ed by Ned spread 34 feet long and 25 feet wide."
What towering studs they are, hanging out here for centuries.
And on our way to the Sunset Rock trail we come upon the Clara Barton tree.
The Sunset Rock Trail takes us to Deer Creek, and being a magnet to all streams and waterways we started to follow the stream.
The snowy outline of the stream, you don't see this in the summertime.
The snow covered fallen log over the creek, the sun shining on the babbling water as it drops over a rock in the creek bed.
As we follow the stream, we no longer see trail blazes, oops, we back track to the last sign we saw and realize it pointed up the hill not down the creek. Oh well, at least it was a nice detour.
Once on the trail again we come upon a fallen tree covering the path. We climb over it and stay on the path. "Even in the best sequoia habitat these giants are not immortal. Soft soil, heavy snows, or root damage may unbalance a tree and cause it to lean. If it leans too much, its shallow roots cannot hold its huge weight, and the tree falls."
The views off this trail are great.
Another fallen log, this time a pine tree with a trail marker on it.
We reach the end of the trail and stick our poles in the snow.
This vast rock will not need hiking poles. I had no idea Sunset Rock would be this large. Looking north you can see the mountains.
On the east side you can see the Sierra Nevada range.
On the west side a misty haze among the hills.
And on the south side the pine forest. We sat awhile and enjoyed the views.
Heading back down the trail, more views.
And a fine young Sequoia
"Young sequoias grow into graceful spires as they race toward the sunlight."
After finishing our 3rd trail we went to Wuksachi Lodge to picnic.
Nice mountain views here at the lodge.
The outside deck is currently closed for winter.
So we ate on out on our truck tailgate and soaked it all in.
One last photo of the orange poppies covering the hill on our ride back.
Yes indeed, another good day.
Tomorrow we will get some chores done and rest up for our next travel day.
gotta love those sequoia trees, so majestic
ReplyDeleteJealous!
ReplyDeleteOoooooo I cannot wait to do this! It looks like a very memorable part of your trip!
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